More Purple Mountains
- Riley Smith
- Oct 6, 2019
- 6 min read
Between the Ming Courtyard and the Sun-Yan Courtyard, there is a long green pathway called the Greenway. I walked maybe an eighth of the way down the Greenway, before I collapsed on a bench, exhausted. I really wanted to keep exploring and seeing things, but I was pushing it. I was maybe sicker than I had at first realized. I caught my breath, journaled a bit, and stared at what to me looked like every other forest I had ever been too.
What the fuck am I doing here? Right? Why am I slowly dying on a park bench in China? My life has turned into eat pray love, except without any food, religion, or love. But what can I do now? I'm stuck with here. So I get back up, and keep walking through these boring trees,
Further down the Greenway, I came to Underwater world. I don't know whose idea it was to put a sea world type torture park in between two mausoleums honoring great Chinese leaders, but I'll have what he's having.
At the front of Underwater World was a giant sign advertising a deal at the seafood restaurant in the park. I can't imagine craving seafood after being at an aquarium all day, but maybe it feels like one of those point and pick your fish restaurants. I walked up to the front entrance and gave them my ticket, thinking my day park pass must have included Underwater World as well, but it didn't. They pointed over to a kiosk saying I would have to pay another 150 rmb to get in. I have never seen Blackfish, but I remember everyone getting very upset about it so I didn't get a ticket. As long as I don't buy a ticket for Underwater World, I think it's okay I don't see that movie. So I headed back to the Greenway and continued my trek.
I stopped and got what I thought would be a hotdog but was just a sausage on a stick with no bread or sauces and a bottle of water. I downed them both instantly and kept walking until I came to the courtyard outside of Sun-Yat courtyard, which was basically an outdoor food court with a couple gift shops. I was still starving, so I bought a dish which I thought would be sushi because I wanted to eat something a little more healthy. It turned out to be some sort of fried tofu and was incredibly greasy. While I ate it, a woman cam over to me with her son, pulled her sons pants down, and changed him, all while her son just stood there. I would guess her son was six or seven years old. The show paired nicely with the tofu.
The Purple Mountain Pass ticket did include access to the music stage which was right next door, so I decided to peak at that next. There had just been a music festival the week before, so they were still taking down the lights and the rafters. It seemed like a perfectly nice stage, but I would have been pissed had I paid for this thing seperately.
After peaking around the stage for a good 15 minutes just to make sure I wasn't missing something, I started to head back towards Sun Yat's Mausoleum but got distracted by a sign for Sun Yat's memorial hall so went off in that direction. Even though the sign made it seem nearby, it was another 15 minute hike into the wilderness. I could feel the blisters starting to grow on my feet. I don't know how much more of this I can take, but I also can't give up. I walk past an old school that is gated off, which Sun Yat started in his later years. I also walked past a few houses, which have to belong to park rangers or something. I don't know who else they would let live up here.
The Sun Yat Memorial hall was a museum that had paintings done by some unknown not very good artist of Sun Yat. Basically Sun Yat was this guy who was born poor, but studied, went to Japan for a bit, and then led a revolution in China which overthrew feudalism in the country. He is credited with founding democracy in China, even though he gave the communist party there power and remained a provincial president for the rest of his life. They really love him over there though. He also kept a clean office.
I decided to head back towards the mausoleum via shortcut, but instantly walked into a giant spider web and had a full on freak out. Then I walked back the long normal way I had come.
While walking back, I bought another water bottle. I had already spent almost as much on water as I had my entrance ticket. It was so hot, I don't know how I was still moving.
I finally reached Sun Yat's Courtyard, but Sun Yat's Mausoleum was still a giant flight of stairs away. This was the reason I had come though, so I pushed forward on. Halfway up, I purchased another water bottle. I would have loved to be stingy and save the money, but I've told myself that I shouldn't deny myself water anymore.
At the top, I bought one more water and walked towards the entrance. We were asked not to take photos once we entered, but I did snag one before entering.
Inside the mausoleum, there was complete silence. Everyone was very respectful. After entering through the large entrance way, we walked through a small door at the back that led to a tiny circular room with a whole in the floor. Inside of the whole was a stone coven, marbled in the likeness to Sun Yat himself. Finally, a dead guy! Everyone entering the room was treating the coffin with reverence. Some people crossed themselves, some people blew kisses to the man, I even saw one woman cry. But I felt nothing. I wonder what it would be like for a Chinese person to view George Washington's Mausoleum. I also wonder if I would feel anything at George Washington's Mausoleum. Was my lake of feeling due to my lack of knowledge of history, or due to my cold heart?
Salma had told me this was one of the places in Nanjing that was a must visit. I guess it was kind of cool, but I was curious about what had impressed her about it so much. She still hadn't texted me yet today, so I shot her another message asking when she would be free tonight. Then I looked up.
The view was breathtaking. From up here, you could see all of Nanjing. The horrible green forests I had hiked through, the buildings in the distance. It was a truly beautiful view. I must have spent a good 60 seconds looking at it. But all cool things must come to an end, so I bought one more water for the road and began to descend the stairs again.
In the food court, I decided to treat myself and bought a strawberry slushie. It was so good. It was everything I wanted. Not perfuming, sweet but not artificial, cold, and full of little chunks of ice. Heaven might be a strawberry slushie. I also noticed lots of people slurping down prune juice in the courtyard. Prune juice seems to be very popular here. I wonder if there is a correlation between prune juice consumption and poor quality of public restrooms.
I saw a sign pointing to the Lulu courtyard (I don't think that's what it's actually called) the third and final courtyard in the Purple Mountain Pass ticket. I wanted to take a bus over (these dogs are barking) but I was scared of trying to talk to people in Chinese so I just started to follow the signs.
I walk past a man making animals out of leaves which I thought was pretty cool (I didn't take a photo because I was worried he would ask for money.) Pretty soon after though, I released I wasn't on a Greenway, I was on some sort of service road. In front of me, a woman's scooter broke down. She started trying to flag down passing cars to help her, but no one would stop. She looked like she was having almost as hard of a time as me. She didn't ask me for help, though, she took one look at me and realized I was nearly dead.
On and on I walked, not quite knowing where I was headed. I had a feeling it was the wrong way, but I had no concept of a right way to go instead. I started to sing aloud, just whatever dumb melody came into my head. I was loopy. I was delirious. I had no idea where I was or what was going on. And then I came to a parking lot. I walked around, and realized I was at the bottom of the hill. I had missed the Lulu courtyard (or whatever the hell it was called) but I didn't care. That was enough. If I really need to see the Lulu courtyard someday, I can come back. I was tired and needed a change of pace. I found a public bike, scanned it, and rode off. Riding a bike seemed less hard then continuing to walk, at least I would be using different muscles. Having a feeling whatever I was looking for was west, I biked off in a direction and hoped for the best.
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